I recently sat down with Jonas Atwood, Sommelier, at the beautiful Meritage The Restaurant in Boston, MA. Jonas has been the Sommelier at Mertiage for about 2 years. Meritage The Restaurant is a concept that evolved out of the Boston Wine Festival that was started by chef, Daniel Bruce, 18 years ago. The theme of our chat was, “Why is your restaurant a destination for wine lovers?”.
BostonWineBuzz (BWB): Jonas, please tell me a little about the Meritage wine list?
Jonas Atwood (JA): The Meritage wine list focuses on wines that match well with food. The list's main focus is on California Cabernets and Meritage blends from California. There are also a fair amount of French Bordeaux and Burgundy wines on the list. We have over 1,000 selections on the wine list. The wines are sorted by grape varietal. Finally, the Meritage menu is organized in a way to match the food with the wine. For example, the menu lists Snake River Kobe Beef under Robust Reds and Pan Seared Sea Scallops with pink grapefruit butter under Full Bodied Whites. The other nice feature is that each dish is offered as a small plate ,$16, or large plate,$30. The small plate option allows you to try different foods with the wines.
BWB: What makes the Meritage wine list different?
JA: There are some very unique wines that are not available anywhere else in the Boston marketplace. Our connections through the Boston Wine Festival allow us to obtain some unique wines for our customers. A good example is the Tom Eddy port. Only 40 cases were produced and the wine was not available to distributors.
BWB: What are a couple of your favorite wines on the wine list?
JA: For a white wine, one of my favorites is the 2004 J Hofstätter “Kolbenhof” Gewürztraminer, $99. For a red wine, I have 2 favorites. The 2001 Oddero “Barolo,” $136. It is well balanced and has good acidity. The tannic structure is there but it is not overwhelming. Finally, the 1998 Valdicava “Brunello di Montalcino,” $278, is amazing.
BWB: What bottle would you recommend to your best friend if he/she and their spouse came to Meritage for their anniversary?
JA: Anniversaries are a time for celebrating so let’s go with a Champagne. It's a toss up between 2 Champagnes which both have great body. Option #1 is the Non Vintage Alfred Gratien “Brut Classique,” $42 (half bottle). Option #2 is NV Ruinart “Brut Rosé,” $114. The latter is a bit toastier and would match best with zestier foods.
BWB: What are a couple of the best deals on the wine list? And is there a steal on the list?
JA: The first wine that comes to mind is the 1999 Château Fortia “Châteauneuf-du-Pape,” $80. This wine from a very good year, is drinking well right now, and it is quite balanced and food friendly. Another great deal is the 1997 Oakville Ranch Cabernet, $125. Finally, the 1997 Corison “Kronos Vineyard” Cabernet, $185, is a deal. This wine has limited availability and 1997 was an excellent year for California Cabernets. As for a steal, I would say that would be the 2000 Château Ferrière (3ème cru), $117. As you know, 2000 was an excellent year for Bordeaux. This property backs up to Château Palmer. The 2000 Palmer is on the list for $500.
BWB: Please talk a little about your wines by the glass program?
JA: We offer about 30 to 35 wines by the glass, not including dessert options. The list changes about every 2 weeks or so. It has the same flair as the menu. It list wines by style. i.e. Sparklers, Light Bodied Whites, Full Bodied Whites, Fruity Reds, Spicy/Earthy Reds, and Robust Reds.
BWB: What is the best deal in your wines by the glass program?
JA: For a red, I would say the 2003 Taz Syrah, $16, from Santa Barbara, CA. For a white, the 2004 Huber “Alte Setzen” Grüner Veltliner, $10, from Austria is a steal given the quality.
BWB: Finally, why should the wine lovers of New England come to Mertiage The Restaurant?
JA: Wine lovers should come to Meritage because our “Food to Wine” pairing concept is very unique. We feel the wine is a component of the dish. Each component complements each other.
BWB: That sounds just great, Jonas. If our readers want to stop by for some great wine and food where can they find you?
JA: We are located at Rowes Wharf in the Boston Harbor Hotel in Boston, MA. You can reach us by phone at (617) 439-3995 for reservations and directions. Our website address is www.meritagetherestaurant.com. Hope to see you soon.
I know we will be in for some dinner soon. Cheers, Ken.
Wine Meritage Wine List Jonas Atwood Sommelier Boston Wine Festival Boston Harbor Hotel Meritage Restaurant
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